Where to shop for perfume in San Francisco

A self-guided tour of all the best spots to get fragrance in the Bay Area

I spend a lot of time in other cities, sharing new launches, what people are wearing, and all kinds of perfume news. But there’s so much happening right here in my own backyard, the Bay Area. With a little break from travel, it feels like the perfect moment to spotlight some of the best places to discover fragrance in San Francisco.

Start on Fillmore Street. That’s what I tell anyone who asks where to go in San Francisco to shop for perfume. It’s basically our version of Nolita, fewer perfume stores, but the highest concentration you’ll find in the city. Bonus, it’s home to my favorite fragrance shop in San Francisco, Ministry of Scent.

Go with clean skin, meaning don’t wear any perfume before you start this tour. I’d begin at the corner of Fillmore and Pine, at Byredo. Try to start early, around when the shops open at 11 a.m., and plan to break for lunch at one of the many great spots on Fillmore.

If you like seafood, I recommend Little Shucker. Get the chips and dip and the Little Shucker; if you’re with a group, go for the Big Shucker. A glass of wine to fuel the rest of your tour is also a good idea.

Smell everything first, then circle back for anything you can’t stop thinking about. Get samples, spray on blotter strips, and label each one so you can track the dry down. If something really stands out, try it on your skin. Make sure to save at least an hour for Ministry of Scent, that’s where you should end your perfume tour. The stops below are listed in walking order, not in order of my favorites!

Byredo, 2000 Fillmore Street

Byredo will be your first stop. In most locations, you can buy samples, don’t be afraid to ask. You probably already know this, but Byredo is pricey. I like a lot of their scents, though I’m not always convinced they’re worth the cost. That said, I’ve weirdly had good luck with their makeup. I use their eyeshadow palette daily, it was a total impulse buy, but no regrets. So take a look at the makeup while you’re there, too.

If anyone were to gift me something from Byredo, I’d ask for a bottle of Bal D’Afrique or Black Saffron. Definitely give those a sniff.

Rag & Bone, 2060 Fillmore Street

Hear me out—Rag & Bone has some really solid scents. They’re tucked near the cash register, and it’s worth taking a moment to smell them all. This will be a quick stop on your tour, so don’t get distracted by the clothes—they’re overpriced, and you’ll want to save that money for perfume.

I have a bottle of Bergamot that’s an easy reach for me. I love it so much it’s nearly empty, and I’ve had to stop giving away decants because I need what’s left for myself. It’s clean, fresh, and comforting. It sells out quickly, so it’s not always in stock.

Joanna Goddard

tipped me off to it in my piece on what scents New Yorkers were wearing, and I’ve sworn by it ever since.

Diptyque, 2122 Fillmore

Diptyque is one of my favorite fragrance houses. They’re reliable, consistent, and full of bangers. It’s one of the first brands I recommend to people who are just starting out with perfume.

A longtime favorite of mine is Do Son, a lush white floral heavy on tuberose, but never overwhelming. It’s bright, sunny, and perfect for spring, it just makes me happy. If you’re into musk, try Fleur de Peau for something lighter and softer. Eau Rihla is a great pick if you want a leather scent with a bit more grit.

You can also create your own set of 3 travel sizes for $100, which is a solid deal and makes a great gift. I could go on, but really, just take your time and smell as much as you can. And don’t skip the candles, they’re excellent.

Credo, 2136 Fillmore

If you haven’t been to a Credo before, it’s worth a quick stop. They carry a small selection of “clean” or natural fragrances, and one I’ve loved for a long time is Maison Louis Marie. Bois de Balincourt was my signature scent for years, back when I believed in such a thing. I haven’t worn it in a while, but it’s still so good and one I recommend often. Yes, it smells a lot like Santal 33, but in my opinion, it’s better and much more affordable at $98 for a 50ml bottle. The Maison Marie Louis discovery set is also a great option.

Okay, fine, while you're there, if you’re in the market for a good lip stain, I swear by both shades of the Ere Perez lip stain. They’re staples in my beauty routine. The colors seem shockingly bright in the tube, but they work. I usually layer with a gloss.

There’s also a Kiehl’s across from Byredo. It doesn’t get a full mention since I’m not sure they carry fragrance, but if you want to extend your tour, it’s full of good-smelling stuff and worth popping into.

Le Labo, 2238 Fillmore

My favorite Le Labo scent is Gaiac 10, which is only available in Tokyo or during September, when Le Labo makes its city exclusives available in all stores. It’s a brilliant—and slightly evil—marketing tactic.

A close second for me is Rose 31. It’s the one that made me realize I actually love rose scents and that rose can be a little dirty and textured. Some people don’t love the cumin note, but I do. I have a bottle of Lys 41 that I got years ago. I don’t reach for it much these days, but it is a very pretty white floral.

Le Labo is expensive, but they have some good smells, and it won’t take too long to experience them all. Also worth noting that their lotions are great.

Ministry of Scent, 2408 Fillmore

Congratulations—you’ve made it to the mecca. Ministry of Scent has two locations in the city; this is their second, with the original on Valencia Street. Both carry mostly the same brands, though the Mission location is larger, and inventory can vary, so if you’re serious about smelling everything, it’s worth visiting both.

The staff is incredible, the brand selection is top-notch, and they have a great range of discovery sets, which I especially love picking up when I travel. The Fillmore shop is a smaller, jewel box of a space, and I love hanging out there. A few standout brands they carry that I love include Arquiste, Liis, Clue, and Kerosene. The staff will help you navigate all of it!

Aesop, 2450 Fillmore

You probably know them for their soap, which is great, but they also have some interesting fragrances. I’ll be honest, a lot of their scents lean a bit too medicinal for my personal taste, but I like them on other people.

I recently picked up their new release, Aurner, which stands out as more floral-forward than the rest. It’s a light, woodsy floral that feels really wearable. They also have great lotions and skincare, so don’t skip that section.

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Of course, there are other places to shop for fragrance in the city. I mentioned the second location of Ministry of Scent in the Mission. Valencia is a great street to walk for shopping, and there are a bunch of clothing boutiques that also sell fragrance. So pop into all the cute little shops that look interesting to you.

Aggregate Supply, 806 Valencia Street

This shop has an impressively good selection of fragrances, someone here clearly knows what they’re doing. I picked up my bottle of Henrik Vibskov l'Eau Rouge there, and they also carry brands like Stora Skuggan, Eauso Vert, and Comme des Garçons. They have cute clothes and some cool home goods. Oh, and a great selection of candles.

ZGO Perfumery, 600 Castro Street

ZGO is another excellent perfume shop in San Francisco, and absolutely worth a visit. They carry a wide range of niche and hard-to-find brands—many of which you won’t see at Ministry of Scent—so it’s a great way to round out your scent tour. You’ll find standout lines like Jorum Studio, Francesca Bianchi, D’Orsay, and plenty more to explore. Give yourself time to browse, there’s a lot to discover here.

Reliquary, 544 Hayes Street

You’ll have to head to Hayes Valley to visit Reliquary, which is worth the trip, as it’s a great neighborhood with solid bars and restaurants. They have a nice selection of what I call very California clothing, jewelry, books, candles, and home goods. They also sell some good perfumes and oils. I think this is where I bought my first bottle of DS&DURGA’s White Peacock Lily, a scent they sadly no longer make.

Mandy Aftel’s Archive of Curious Scents

For extra credit, head to the East Bay—Berkeley, to be specific—and visit Mandy Aftel’s incredible museum. Mandy is a legend in the world of natural perfumery. She’s been making perfume out of her Berkeley studio for decades, and everything she creates feels thoughtful, grounded, and deeply connected to the raw materials. Her book Essence and Alchemy is required reading if you’re getting into scent.

The museum is only open on Saturdays and you’ll need to book ahead, but if you’re a fragrance lover, this is absolutely not to be missed. I’ve got more coming on Mandy soon.

And a few more…

Neiman Marcus, 150 Stockton Street

It’s true that downtown SF retail is in a sad state, but we do still have a Neiman Marcus! And it's a great place to get your nose on all the luxury and designer brands. I always like going here when I’m downtown. The staff are friendly, and if they catch wind that you’re into fragrances, they’ll slip you free samples. A great place to smell my beloved Frédéric Malle scents, definitely try to snag some samples of those if you can! I’ve been dreaming of a bottle of Musc Ravaguer for a while now.

Life, 604 Haight Street

This is at the bottom because I have only been here once and can’t tell you what it’s like, but I remember them having a ton of different oils that they might make there. They call themselves a ‘purveyor of fine fragrances & gifts’ and also have a lot of candles. They’ve been around for a while, too.

Ouroboros, 1221 Divisadero

This spot is newer, and I keep meaning to stop by, but I haven’t yet. They carry niche fragrances, although it’s hard to figure out which ones from their website and instagram. It looks like there’s some Filippo Sorcinelli and Baruti. The space looks cool, but I can’t vouch for it!

Jo Malone, 2157 Union Street

If you want to smell all the Jo Malone scents while you’re in San Francisco head here! There’s also a Jo Malone in our airport too though so you could kill time huffing it at SFO.

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If you live in the Bay Area please tell me spots I didn’t include. I know there are more, especially in the East Bay. I’ll update this, so bookmark it as a resource!